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Automotive window tinting is the application of plastic shaded material to the windows of a vehicle, and is one of the fastest growing segments of the automotive "aftermarket." The term "aftermarket" refers to any product or service that is performed on a vehicle after it is purchased by the owner, such as alarm/stereo installations, gold-plating, running-board/wing installations, and similar "add-on" services that are popular with many car owners. Window tinting's popularity lies in its broad appeal to virtually every consumer age/income bracket. Teens love the "mean" look window tinting creates, while baby-boomers recognize the value window tinting produces in its ability to block out harmful UV radiation and solar heat that slowly deteriorates and fades the interior of their vehicle. This all adds up to one powerful message for you - opportunity! Window tinting can be learned right where you are, at your own speed, and can be done part-time for extra money while you slowly develop your skills until you are ready to take the "plunge" and open your own shop. If you already own an aftermarket shop you are in a great position to capitalize on a service that will compliment your product mix and bring in added revenue, so what have you got to lose? A word of caution - automotive window tinting is an art. It involves the learning of precise cutting and exact cleaning and preparation skills that cannot be learned overnight. It takes from three to six months of on-going tinting (tinting everyday or at least every-other day) to master the techniques necessary to tint professionally. This is why there are so few really competent automotive window tinters around, and why opportunities abound for those who master automotive window tinting. Our videos, manuals, and software will not make you a professional window tinter. They will expose you to everything you will need to know about window tinting, which will make your learning curve much faster and a whole lot easier. Take a look at our products and see which are right for you!
There are basically two ways to learn automotive window tinting: (1) The best way is to find an entry level position (trainee) at a local tint shop. Be honest and up front about your plans to eventually have your own business. Many shops will agree to train you as long as you agree to work for a specified length of time after you have learned the trade, usually one to two years. Also, you should agree to sign a ‘no compete’ contract in which you agree not to set up your business within so many miles of the shop in which you trained. If you apply yourself, within 6 months to a year you should become skilled enough to tint professionally. It takes from three to six months of active tinting (tinting at least three to four times per week) to acquire the skills necessary to tint automobiles professionally. Tinting in a shop environment has two benefits: (a) Your are trained by an experienced tinter which greatly accelerates your learning curve, and (b) you are paid while you learn! (2) If your situation makes working in a tint shop impossible, then you must learn “on your own” by acquiring a roll of film and the essential “tools of the trade,” and begin by tinting your own car over and over again until you learn how to produce “factory-looking” tint applications on every window of your own vehicle. Here are the steps necessary for all of you “Do-it-Yourself-ers” out there: (a) Get our 90 minute Automotive Window Tinting Video into your hands! It is by far the most thorough and comprehensive video on automotive window tinting on the market. Watching experienced, professional installers ply their trade will give you insight and comprehension into exactly what needs to be done, which is the next best thing to actually working in a professional tint shop alongside experienced tinters. The video will make it look easy, but no video ever took the place of hands-on experience with handling film, which is your next step in learning automotive window tinting. (b) Once you have viewed the video and read its companion manual, “Automotive Window Tinting Basics,” and have downloaded the phone numbers of the film distributors in your area and ordered some film and tools (at least (2) 20” rolls of film and all of your essential tools should not cost you more than $300.00), spend at least one to two months practicing on your own car and friends cars, charging them just enough to pay for your film. Begin by tinting the smallest window in your vehicle, such as a wing window that is fixed (doesn’t open or close). This way you save on your blown film costs, since you will make many mistakes at first and you might as well minimize your film usage as much as possible. (c) After getting your feet wet for a month or so on your own, we strongly advise you attend a training class on film installation. Many film distributors offer weekend classes free or for a nominal charge, and these classes will increase your exposure to new techniques and methods in auto window tinting. a 1-2 week training class is recommended if you have the time and money to invest in one. Contact us for a list of recommended training classes. (d) After a month or two you should be able to tint most of the pick-up trucks and some of the recreational vehicles (SUV’s) on the road, as they have large but flat rear windows. It will take time and patience to learn the two skills necessary to tint most of the coupes, hatchbacks, and sedans, which are splicing and heat-shrinking. The rear windows on these vehicles are large and double-curved, which call for skill in splicing and heat-shrinking the film to conform to their curvatures. The important thing at first is to build your confidence by tinting the easier vehicles (trucks and cars with flat, one-piece rear windows). You will develop your cleaning and cutting skills in the process and slowly move toward increased competence in the other disciplines as well. Many people make the mistake of trying to do too much too soon in automotive window tinting, and give up because they encounter windows that demand proficiency in skills they simply have not had the time to master. Time and patience are the two indispensable elements in automotive window tinting, and both are free. Just keep at it and slowly your dedication and effort will pay off!
Residential/Commercial window tinting is the application of plastic film to the windows of homes, offices and large commercial buildings. It is a little-known "niche" market that is relatively easy to learn and can be done out of your home, meaning low start-up costs and low monthly overhead! The two primary reasons for tinting home and business windows is the reduction in heat and interior UV fading, and is very popular in the "sun-belt" region of our country as well as areas that experience hot spring and summer seasons. The learning period is normally one to three months, during which time you tint your own windows (the film can be easily removed unless allowed to "set-up," or dry for more than 10-20 minutes) over and over again until the skills of cleaning, cutting, and splicing are mastered. An exciting area of growth in residential/commercial window tinting is in security film. Security, or Safety film, is the application of clear or lightly-shaded film that is thicker (2-7 mil) than conventional (1 mil) solar films. Security film is installed where the threat of smash-and-grab theft is high, and to prevent flying shards of glass in natural disasters, such as tornados and hurricanes.
How can I learn Residential/Commercial Window Tinting Residential/Commercial window tinting is easier to learn than automotive window tinting, but still must follow an approach similar to learning automotive tinting. (1) Learn from a pro. Find a business that tints R/C and become a trainee. This is by far the best method, as you will be exposed to immediate, hands-on training at a professional level. As a matter of honesty and personal integrity be sure and inform the company that you will eventually like to have your own business, and be prepared to sign a “Non-Compete” contract stipulating that you will not open a tinting business within a stated distance from his area of business. This falls under the “Do unto others” golden rule of life, as no one wants to train his eventual competitor! (2) If the first approach doesn’t work or you can’t quit your present job then begin by viewing Sunset’s Residential/Commercial Window Tinting Video. This 2 hour video will explain everything you need to know to successfully tint large home and business windows. Once you have taken possession of the video you qualify for our 800 Referral Program. Download the phone numbers of the film distributors in your area and contact them for their film prices and tool catalogs. R/C window tinting requires more of an up-front investment than automotive tinting because the film usage’s are much greater and more equipment is needed (ladders, film cutters, dry-cloths, a working pick-up or van, etc). Your pick-up truck will need to have a ladder rack, or better yet find a cargo van to transport your film, ladders, and tools from one job-site to the next. The least expensive route to take is to buy a 60” roll of medium density film. This shade will satisfy the needs of many prospective customers, but you will discover you will initially have to re-invest most of your profits into more film. This is where partial rolls will really help you conserve your film costs, as you slowly build your film inventory. You should realistically expect to spend between $1,500.00 to $2,500.00 acquiring enough of a film inventory to cover the basic needs of your customers. After viewing the R/C video and purchasing a roll of dyed (least expensive) film begin by tinting some small size windows in your home. No point in beginning with the large sliding windows, as they will eat up precious amounts of your film. Concentrate on the smaller windows (French panes, small door windows) to develop your cleaning and trimming skills before tackling the larger and/or irregular-shaped windows.
How do I remove old film that has bubbled or distorted This subject is thoroughly explained in Appendix F of the Automotive Window Tinting Installation Manual. On rear window equipped with defroster lines the standard method of using a 1” single edge razor to scrape off the film would be dumb, as the razor would remove the electrolyte coating on the defroster lines and damage the rear window defroster system. Usually the old film will be dry and brittle and will disintegrate as you attempt to peel it off the rear window. If this happens find some plastic dry-cleaning garment bags, cut them in half (open them up), or use the clear film liner you have lying around if you are already tinting. Spray a solution of window cleaner with ammonia on the old film, and lay the plastic over the film and park the vehicle out with direct sunlight on the window to be stripped. Let the window soak for at least one hour-spraying the film every 10-15 minutes to keep it wet. After 45 minutes attempt to peel a corner of the film off. If it resists peeling or still disintegrates spray it again and leave it for another 30-45 minutes. Sooner or later (if you keep the window wet) the cleaner will soak through the film and attack the adhesive under it, making it soft and less aggressive. Slowly peel away the old film from the window. Often the old adhesive will remain on the window after the film has been removed. It is colorless, so you need to check the glass by touching it for “tackiness.” If your finger sticks to the window then you know you still have a layer of adhesive left on the glass that must be removed before installing any new film. If the glue remains on the window spray it again with the soapy cleaner and take a sponge with a course plastic backing and scrub the old adhesive off. I know its a messy, time-consuming operation but that’s why most shops charge $50.00 to $75.00 to remove old film. Just keep thinking of all the money you are saving while you get sticky and sweaty! If you plan to have the rear window re-tinted be sure to remove all the old adhesive from the rear window, especially around the edges and corners of the window. Otherwise the tint shop will charge you extra for having to remove it themselves, as any adhesive that is left on the window will show up as white blotches under the new tint installation. A word of caution when using sponges with coarse backing to scrub off the remaining adhesive - some have been known to scratch the glass, so scrub a corner of the window first and examine it closely before using it on the entire window. Also, before you begin the process of soaking the old film off the window lay down plastic sheets or backing material to protect your rear deck and speakers. It is recommended to remove the speakers and rear brake light unit if they interfere with a clean removal. If you plan to re-tint the window they would have to be removed prior to tinting anyway. All of the above probably will take from 1-3 hours depending on your luck (adhesive removes with the film) and experience, but some unusually stubborn adhesives could take longer and require stronger cleaning solutions (Naptha or lacquer thinner in extreme cases). Wear plastic gloves and cover everything around the window if these strong chemicals are used! The Automotive Window Tinting Installation Manual gives a detailed explanation of film removal in Appendix F, and the entire appendix section is a “must read” for anyone wishing to master auto window tinting (buy it!). However, if all you want to do is remove old, bubbly film from your own vehicle once every five years then this section should work for you. Good Luck!
Laws regarding window tinting We get many questions regarding laws with reference to automotive window tinting. The federal government has strict laws for the tinting of vehicle windows that they classify as “requisite for driver visibility.” These windows have been assigned the DOT (Dept. of Transportation) “AS-1” (windshield), and “AS-2” (driver and passenger roll-downs) classifications, and which may only be legally tinted up to 70% VLT (visible light transmission). Since 70% is the normal factory tint most vehicles come equipped with any other aftermarket film application (window tint film) that you install on the front roll-downs would reduce the VLT to below the acceptable 70% shade, and therefore would be illegal from the federal governments point of view. Fortunately the federal government has deferred to the states in setting and enforcing their own window tinting laws, and that’s good news for many tinters, as the states have generally taken a more permissive attitude toward allowing darker shades of film on vehicles. You can contact your state highway patrol office or consult your state's Department of Motor Vehicle publication to determine what’s legal and what is not. Check with your local state authorities to be sure.
I got a ticket for tinted windows. How do I remove the film myself Removing old film on roll-downs or other side windows of a vehicle normally is not due to adhesive failure but to tickets. If this is your problem simply roll the window down slightly to expose the top lip of the roll-down, take a 1” single edge razor blade and peel back the top corner of the film and slowly peel the piece of film off the window. Do it slowly, as this often will allow the old adhesive to remove with the film and make your job quicker and less messy. Peeling the film too fast will cause the adhesive to remain on the roll-down once the film has been removed. If this occurs (it normally remains on the window) then take your spray cleaner and spray the window and let it soak for about 60 seconds, then slowly razor off the old adhesive using firm, steady vertical strokes. Again, check to see that all of the old glue is removed, otherwise the glue will show up as white blotches under the new film installation. Run your hand over the entire window to “feel” for any remaining areas of old adhesive. Cover the door panel with a cloth/rag to protect it from your soap and from the old adhesive you are removing.
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